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油(you)泼(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)传统(tong)特色面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)(yi)(yi),又叫扯(che)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、拽(zhuai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、抻面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、桢条面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、香(xiang)棍面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等(deng),起源于(yu)(yu)(yu)周代(dai)。以(yi)(yi)(yi)陕西(xi)油(you)泼(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)最为著(zhu)名(ming),有鲜香(xiang)味(wei)、酸辣味(wei)、香(xiang)辣味(wei)。[1] 油(you)泼(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)种很普通的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)制作(zuo)(zuo)方法,将(jiang)手工制作(zuo)(zuo)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条在(zai)开水中(zhong)煮熟后捞在(zai)碗里,将(jiang)葱(cong)花碎、花椒(jiao)粉、盐(yan)等(deng)配料和厚(hou)厚(hou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)层的辣椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)起平(ping)铺在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)上,用烧的滚烫(tang)(tang)的菜(cai)油(you)浇在(zai)调料上,顿时热(re)油(you)沸腾,将(jiang)花椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、辣椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)烫(tang)(tang)熟而满碗红光(guang),随后调入(ru)适量(liang)酱油(you)、香(xiang)醋即可(ke)(ke)。也(ye)可(ke)(ke)另(ling)外加入(ru)腊(la)汁肉、西(xi)红柿鸡蛋等(deng)搭配食(shi)(shi)用。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条是(shi)(shi)在(zai)周代(dai)“礼面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”的基础上发展演变而来;秦汉时代(dai)称之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)为“汤(tang)饼”,属于(yu)(yu)(yu)“煮饼”类(lei)中(zhong)的一(yi)(yi)(yi)种;隋唐时代(dai)叫“长(zhang)命面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,意(yi)为下(xia)入(ru)锅内久煮不断(duan);宋元(yuan)时代(dai)又改称为“水滑(hua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。据元(yuan)代(dai)韩奕所著(zhu)《易牙遗意(yi)》记(ji)载:“水滑(hua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian):用十(shi)分白面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)揉搜成剂。一(yi)(yi)(yi)斤作(zuo)(zuo)十(shi)数(shu)块。放在(zai)水中(zhong),候(hou)其(qi)(qi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)性(xing)发得十(shi)分满足,逐(zhu)块抽(chou)拽(zhuai),下(xia)汤(tang)煮熟。抽(chou)拽(zhuai)得阔薄乃(nai)好。”清(qing)代(dai)朝廷(ting)大臣薛宝辰在(zai)其(qi)(qi)著(zhu)作(zuo)(zuo)《素(su)食(shi)(shi)说(shuo)略》中(zhong)记(ji)载更为详细:“其(qi)(qi)以(yi)(yi)(yi)水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),入(ru)盐(yan)、碱、清(qing)油(you)揉匀,复以(yi)(yi)(yi)湿布(bu),俟其(qi)(qi)融和,扯(che)为细条。煮之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),名(ming)为桢面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。”书(shu)(shu)中(zhong)还指(zhi)出(chu):“作(zuo)(zuo)法以(yi)(yi)(yi)陕西(xi)朝邑、同州为最佳。”关(guan)于(yu)(yu)(yu)桢条面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的形状,书(shu)(shu)中(zhong)说(shuo)道(dao):“其(qi)(qi)薄等(deng)于(yu)(yu)(yu)韭菜(cai),其(qi)(qi)细比(bi)于(yu)(yu)(yu)挂面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),可(ke)(ke)以(yi)(yi)(yi)成三(san)棱(leng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)形,可(ke)(ke)以(yi)(yi)(yi)成中(zhong)空之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)形。”“其(qi)(qi)余如面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)片、面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)旗之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)类(lei)”。同样一(yi)(yi)(yi)块面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),能(neng)扯(che)抻成多(duo)种不同的形状,可(ke)(ke)见技术的精湛非同一(yi)(yi)(yi)般。
菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)面(mian)菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)面(mian),不(bu)仅有(you)菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)(de)营(ying)养(yang),也融合(he)了石磨(mo)挂(gua)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)营(ying)养(yang)。石磨(mo)在(zai)(zai)低(di)速运转的(de)(de)(de)过(guo)程,不(bu)会产生(sheng)高温,避免机(ji)械设备研磨(mo)时(shi)的(de)(de)(de)高温,对原粮营(ying)养(yang)品质(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)破坏,保留了小麦(mai)原有(you)的(de)(de)(de)蛋白质(zhi)、碳水(shui)(shui)化合(he)物、钙、磷(lin)、铁、维生(sheng)素B1、B2等多种营(ying)养(yang)成分(fen),特别是(shi)(shi)维生(sheng)素E的(de)(de)(de)含(han)量(liang)是(shi)(shi)普通面(mian)粉的(de)(de)(de)18倍。且含(han)有(you)适量(liang)的(de)(de)(de)麦(mai)麸和(he)小麦(mai)胚芽油,长期食(shi)用能预防富贵(gui)病(bing),适应回归自(zi)然(ran)(ran)的(de)(de)(de)饮食(shi)潮流(liu)。所以(yi),说石磨(mo)挂(gua)面(mian)是(shi)(shi)名(ming)不(bu)虚传的(de)(de)(de)绿色(se)(se)健康(kang)食(shi)品,传统石磨(mo)凝集(ji)了千(qian)百(bai)年(nian)来劳动人(ren)民的(de)(de)(de)智慧结晶。享受自(zi)然(ran)(ran)、享受健康(kang)!· 菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)清洗干净(jing)· · 放(fang)在(zai)(zai)加入(ru)(ru)(ru)盐和(he)油的(de)(de)(de)开水(shui)(shui)中(zhong)焯一下。盐和(he)油的(de)(de)(de)量(liang)在(zai)(zai)原料外。大概(gai)盐1克(ke),油5克(ke)。这样做的(de)(de)(de)目的(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)为了让菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)颜色(se)(se)更(geng)好看(kan)· · 焯好水(shui)(shui)的(de)(de)(de)菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)放(fang)入(ru)(ru)(ru)冷水(shui)(shui)中(zhong)· · 放(fang)凉(liang)后切(qie)成3厘米(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)(de)小段· · 放(fang)入(ru)(ru)(ru)搅拌机(ji)中(zhong)加少许(xu)水(shui)(shui),随后过(guo)滤· · 取115克(ke)菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)汁(zhi),加入(ru)(ru)(ru)250克(ke)面(mian)粉,和(he)成面(mian)团· · 然(ran)(ran)后擀长,再擀薄(bo)些· · 切(qie)成面(mian)条,撒些玉米(mi)(mi)淀粉。面(mian)条做好后。放(fang)在(zai)(zai)10倍的(de)(de)(de)开水(shui)(shui)里煮熟· · 肉末放(fang)在(zai)(zai)油锅中(zhong)炒香(xiang)· · 倒入(ru)(ru)(ru)切(qie)好的(de)(de)(de)胡萝卜丝和(he)茭白丝· · 加上调料翻炒均匀即可。吃的(de)(de)(de)时(shi)候,倒入(ru)(ru)(ru)菠(bo)(bo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)上面(mian)
BiangBiang面(mian)(mian)(mian)biangbiang面(mian)(mian)(mian),陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)关中(zhong)(zhong)地(di)区一(yi)种(zhong)知名传(chuan)统面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi),扯(che)(che)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的一(yi)种(zhong)。biangbiang面(mian)(mian)(mian)由上等(deng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉精制而(er)成,是一(yi)种(zhong)含有(you)一(yi)定脂肪、B族维生素和钙、磷、铁的面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)小(xiao)吃。陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)民(min)风民(min)俗(su)中(zhong)(zhong)的“陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)十(shi)大(da)怪”之一(yi)“面(mian)(mian)(mian)条宽的像裤带(dai)”,指的就是这种(zhong)特色面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。biangbiang面(mian)(mian)(mian)主(zhu)要通(tong)过揉(rou)、抻、甩、扯(che)(che)等(deng)步骤制作,面(mian)(mian)(mian)宽而(er)厚,犹如裤腰带(dai),口感劲道(dao),食(shi)用前(qian)加入各色臊子或(huo)油(you)泼辣子,味辣而(er)香。相传(chuan)康熙十(shi)分喜欢此面(mian)(mian)(mian)而(er)名震天(tian)下。2014年(nian)“习(xi)连(lian)会(hui)”后,习(xi)近平特别准备“家乡菜”陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)泡馍、肉夹馍以及(ji)“biang biang面(mian)(mian)(mian)”家宴款待连(lian)战伉俪(li)。2016年(nian)6月15日起,包括biangbiang面(mian)(mian)(mian)等(deng)在内的5种(zhong)西(xi)安(an)地(di)方小(xiao)吃将(jiang)有(you)统一(yi)的地(di)方标准。
炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是流行于大江南北的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)中国(guo)传统小吃(chi),制作(zuo)原(yuan)料(liao)主要有面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条、鸡(ji)蛋、肉(rou)丝、小油(you)菜、葱(cong)段等(deng),口(kou)味鲜美,营养丰富。一(yi)般(ban)是指(zhi)两种(zhong),一(yi)种(zhong)是炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条,另一(yi)种(zhong)是炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)。炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条是以(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条、鸡(ji)蛋或肉(rou)为主要食材(cai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。在中国(guo),好(hao)吃(chi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)主要有:广州(zhou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)豉油(you)皇炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、漯河的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、安(an)庆的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、芜湖的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、辽宁的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、潮(chao)汕干炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、山东拌(ban)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)是将玉米、豆子等(deng)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)熟(shu)磨成的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),这样在食用的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)时(shi)候(hou)用热的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)汤(tang)水一(yi)冲或搅拌(ban)就(jiu)可以(yi)食用。
大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)拌面(mian)新(xin)疆(jiang)大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)起(qi)源,说(shuo)法多(duo)种,真实的(de)(de)(de)(de)来(lai)源已(yi)不易考究。较(jiao)为(wei)权威的(de)(de)(de)(de)说(shuo)法为(wei):二十世(shi)纪八十年代,新(xin)疆(jiang)维(wei)吾尔自治区沙湾县农民李某在路(lu)边开(kai)(kai)(kai)了(le)(le)(le)一家(jia)(jia)“满朋阁”饭(fan)店(dian)(dian),擅(shan)长烹(peng)制辣(la)(la)子鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)块(kuai)(kuai)(kuai)。一次,一个建筑公司的(de)(de)(de)(de)职工来(lai)吃辣(la)(la)子鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)块(kuai)(kuai)(kuai),虽然觉得味(wei)(wei)道(dao)好(hao)(hao),但总感觉量太(tai)少,看(kan)到李某拿了(le)(le)(le)只整鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)从(cong)后堂出来(lai),就要他把整只鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)都给他们(men)炒(chao)上。可是,炒(chao)好(hao)(hao)后的(de)(de)(de)(de)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)块(kuai)(kuai)(kuai)却没有(you)那么大(da)(da)(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)子装(zhuang),李某就用(yong)盛拌面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)子盛上了(le)(le)(le),吃完后这(zhei)群客人(ren)大(da)(da)(da)(da)呼过瘾,而(er)邻座(zuo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)客人(ren)们(men)也纷纷要求来(lai)一份大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)装(zhuang)盛的(de)(de)(de)(de)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。[2] 据说(shuo),起(qi)先(xian)(xian)店(dian)(dian)家(jia)(jia)把菜(cai)谱写在一块(kuai)(kuai)(kuai)小(xiao)黑板上,叫“辣(la)(la)子炒(chao)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”,后来(lai)越来(lai)越多(duo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)饭(fan)店(dian)(dian)开(kai)(kai)(kai)始推出这(zhei)种用(yong)大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)子装(zhuang)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)块(kuai)(kuai)(kuai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)做法,大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)名声也就传开(kai)(kai)(kai)了(le)(le)(le)。一时间,沙湾县城国(guo)道(dao)两侧,涌现(xian)出了(le)(le)(le)许多(duo)“大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”餐馆。1992年,沙湾杏花村大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)店(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)老板张某首先(xian)(xian)注(zhu)册了(le)(le)(le)“大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”这(zhei)个品牌(pai),一道(dao)乡(xiang)土菜(cai),开(kai)(kai)(kai)始了(le)(le)(le)自己的(de)(de)(de)(de)品牌(pai)之路(lu)。[3] 经过20多(duo)年的(de)(de)(de)(de)发(fa)展(zhan)演变,在新(xin)疆(jiang),不仅可以(yi)吃到大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)经典款“土豆(dou)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”,还(hai)可以(yi)吃到大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)豪华(hua)版、升级版“香菇鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、咸菜(cai)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、豇豆(dou)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、花卷鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、海带鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、油炸馕(nang)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、冻豆(dou)腐大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)、鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)血饼大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”等,香喷喷的(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)(da)盘(pan)(pan)(pan)鸡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)再配上具有(you)新(xin)疆(jiang)特色的(de)(de)(de)(de)馕(nang)、皮带面(mian),绝对是一道(dao)美味(wei)(wei)。
户县软面(mian)户县软面(mian)是 “关中(zhong)八大怪”之(zhi)一(yi)的(de)——“面(mian)条像裤带”。“关中(zhong)八大怪”,指陕西省的(de)关中(zhong)地(di)区(大致(zhi)包(bao)括西安、咸(xian)阳、渭(wei)南、宝(bao)鸡、铜川,秦岭以北,黄土高原以南)出现的(de)八种奇特风俗习惯。由于(yu)气候(hou)、经济、文化等(deng)多方面(mian)原因的(de)影响,关中(zhong)地(di)区在衣、食、住、行(xing)、东等(deng)方面(mian),形成了(le)一(yi)些独特的(de)方式。
刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)山(shan)西是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)乡(xiang),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食种类繁多(duo),其中(zhong)以(yi)山(shan)西大同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)最(zui)为有(you)名(ming),可(ke)谓“面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)王(wang)”,它有(you)内虚外(wai)筋、柔软光滑、易于消化等特(te)点,与北京(jing)炸酱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、河南烩面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、湖北热(re)干(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、四川担(dan)担(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)被(bei)誉为中(zhong)国著名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)五大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)西人民日常喜食的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食,因其风(feng)味独(du)特(te),驰名(ming)中(zhong)外(wai)。刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)全凭刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue),因此(ci)得名(ming)。用刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)叶,中(zhong)厚边薄。棱锋分(fen)明,形(xing)似柳叶;入口(kou)外(wai)滑内筋,软而(er)不粘,越(yue)嚼越(yue)香(xiang),深受喜食面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食者欢(huan)迎(ying)。[3] 在(zai)(zai)(zai)山(shan)西各地(di)的(de)(de)(de)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)中(zhong),最(zui)出名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)莫过于大同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),可(ke)称“面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食王(wang)中(zhong)王(wang)”。大同(tong)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)物美(mei)价廉,色、香(xiang)、味俱全,形(xing)成了独(du)特(te)的(de)(de)(de)大同(tong)风(feng)格,很(hen)多(duo)外(wai)地(di)朋友来(lai)到(dao)大同(tong),在(zai)(zai)(zai)品尝之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)后,都赞不绝口(kou)。一些本(ben)地(di)游(you)子(zi),在(zai)(zai)(zai)回到(dao)家乡(xiang)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)后,都要先赶去削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)店,去吃(chi)一碗刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),来(lai)解日夜(ye)思念之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)情。在(zai)(zai)(zai)大同(tong),一个(ge)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆的(de)(de)(de)成与败、存与亡(wang),都关系到(dao)这个(ge)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)里的(de)(de)(de)臊(sao)子(zi)的(de)(de)(de)配方。这是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)与山(shan)西太原的(de)(de)(de)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)不同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)地(di)方,大同(tong)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)不仅仅是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)工艺的(de)(de)(de)独(du)特(te),还(hai)有(you)味道的(de)(de)(de)独(du)特(te),所谓在(zai)(zai)(zai)大同(tong)百(bai)家百(bai)味,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆老板可(ke)以(yi)把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆给了你,但是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)臊(sao)子(zi)配方,可(ke)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)重金(jin)难买。这也就是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)为什么在(zai)(zai)(zai)大同(tong),刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)好吃(chi)的(de)(de)(de)地(di)方不一定是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)豪华饭店,也许(xu)就在(zai)(zai)(zai)你家门口(kou)街(jie)摊(tan)上。
麻(ma) 食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)在(zai)我国(guo)(guo)北方叫“手撇(pie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”、“捻面(mian)(mian)(mian)卷(juan)”,南方人叫“猫(mao)(mao)耳朵”、“空心面(mian)(mian)(mian)”。宁夏山区(qu)的(de)回(hui)民叫它(ta)“麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)子”,四(si)川地区(qu)的(de)回(hui)族习(xi)惯称之为(wei)(wei)“次面(mian)(mian)(mian)子”或“鱼儿钻沙”。麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)是(shi)元(yuan)代(dai)(dai)色目(mu)人穆(mu)斯林创制出来的(de)。麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)这种面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)历(li)史可(ke)以(yi)追(zhui)溯到元(yuan)代(dai)(dai),元(yuan)代(dai)(dai)饮(yin)膳太(tai)医(yi)忽思慧在(zai)他的(de)成名作《饮(yin)膳正(zheng)要(yao)(yao)》一(yi)书(shu)中(zhong)说:“秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)回(hui)回(hui)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian),系手撇(pie)面(mian)(mian)(mian),白面(mian)(mian)(mian)6斤做秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),羊肉(rou)一(yi)脚子,炒焦(jiao)肉(rou)乞(qi)马(ma),用(yong)好肉(rou)汤(tang)(tang)下(xia),炒葱调和(he)匀,下(xia)蒜(suan)酪(lao)、香菜末(mo)。”这里(li)指另沏汤(tang)(tang)烩秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)。明(ming)代(dai)(dai)美(mei)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)学家黄正(zheng)一(yi)在(zai)《事物组珠(zhu)》一(yi)书(shu)中(zhong)也有说明(ming):“秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)作小卷(juan)饼(bing),煮(zhu)熟人炒肉(rou)汁食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)。”同代(dai)(dai)饮(yin)膳典籍《居(ju)家必用(yong)事类全集》一(yi)书(shu)中(zhong)更有详细的(de)记述:“秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)入(ru)水沿面(mian)(mian)(mian)和(he)圆小弹剂,冷水浸,手掌(zhang)按小薄(bo)饼(bing)儿,下(xia)锅煮(zhu)熟,捞出过(guo)什(shen),煎(jian)炒酸肉(rou),任意(yi)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)之。”史书(shu)将秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)制法、煮(zhu)法以(yi)及食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)用(yong)方法表述得颇为(wei)(wei)具(ju)体(ti)。据中(zhong)国(guo)(guo)营养学家和(he)美(mei)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)家考证,如(ru)今在(zai)杭(hang)州、北京、上海、西(xi)安等(deng)大(da)中(zhong)城市(shi)餐馆里(li)的(de)烩小吃(chi)(chi)(chi)——“猫(mao)(mao)耳朵”,就是(shi)由古代(dai)(dai)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)品“秃(tu)(tu)秃(tu)(tu)麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)”演变而来的(de)。贾(jia)平凹先生(sheng)在(zai)《陕(shan)西(xi)小吃(chi)(chi)(chi)小识(shi)录(lu)》称作“圪咜(zha)”(陕(shan)北语)。关中(zhong)人称作麻(ma)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)、猫(mao)(mao)耳朵。以(yi)荞面(mian)(mian)(mian)为(wei)(wei)料(liao),现在(zai),绝大(da)多数都以(yi)白面(mian)(mian)(mian)为(wei)(wei)主要(yao)(yao)原料(liao)。掐(qia)指蛋大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)团在(zai)净草帽上搓之为(wei)(wei)精吃(chi)(chi)(chi),切厚块以(yi)手揉搓为(wei)(wei)懒(lan)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。主要(yao)(yao)分布在(zai)陕(shan)西(xi),是(shi)大(da)家喜(xi)欢的(de)日常(chang)简单饮(yin)食(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)一(yi)种。
牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)拉面(mian)(mian)兰(lan)州牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)最早始于(yu)清嘉庆(qing)年间,甘肃(su)东乡(xiang)族马六七从河(he)(he)南省怀庆(qing)府苏(su)寨村(河(he)(he)南博(bo)爱(ai)县境内(nei)(nei))国子监太(tai)学生陈维精处学习小车牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)老汤(tang)面(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)工艺后(hou)带(dai)到兰(lan)州,经陈氏后(hou)人(ren)陈和声(sheng)、回族厨(chu)师马保子等(deng)人(ren)的(de)创新(xin)、改(gai)良(liang)  后(hou),以(yi)“一(yi)清(汤(tang))、二(er)白(bai)(bai)(bai)(萝卜(bu))、三(san)绿(香(xiang)菜蒜苗)、四(si)红(辣子)、五(wu)黄(huang)(面(mian)(mian)条(tiao)(tiao)黄(huang)亮)”统一(yi)了兰(lan)州牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)拉面(mian)(mian)的(de)标准。在其后(hou)200多年的(de)漫长(zhang)岁月里,兰(lan)州牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)享誉(yu)(yu)天下,以(yi)肉(rou)(rou)烂(lan)汤(tang)鲜、面(mian)(mian)质精细而蜚声(sheng)中外,打入了全国各地,赢得(de)了国内(nei)(nei)乃至全世(shi)界范围内(nei)(nei)食客(ke)的(de)好评和荣誉(yu)(yu),并(bing)被国家确定(ding)为(wei)中式三(san)大快餐试点推广品种之一(yi),被誉(yu)(yu)为(wei)"中华第一(yi)面(mian)(mian)"。 兰(lan)州牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian),具有牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)烂(lan)软,萝卜(bu)白(bai)(bai)(bai)净,辣油红艳(yan),香(xiang)菜翠绿,面(mian)(mian)条(tiao)(tiao)柔韧、滑(hua)利爽口、汤(tang)汁(zhi)、诸味和谐,香(xiang)味扑鼻(bi),诱人(ren)食欲等(deng)特点。面(mian)(mian)条(tiao)(tiao)的(de)种类(lei)较多,有大宽、二(er)宽、韭叶、一(yi)窝丝(si)、“荞麦棱等(deng),还有“二(er)细”、“三(san)细”、“细”、“毛(mao)细”等(deng),食客(ke)可随(sui)爱(ai)好自(zi)行选择(ze)。 当地人(ren)们(men)描述它是一(yi)清、二(er)白(bai)(bai)(bai)、三(san)绿、四(si)红、五(wu)黄(huang),即(ji):牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)汤(tang)清如(ru)白(bai)(bai)(bai)水,几片白(bai)(bai)(bai)萝卜(bu)纯白(bai)(bai)(bai),汤(tang)上漂(piao)着鲜绿的(de)蒜苗,辣椒油红,面(mian)(mian)条(tiao)(tiao)光亮透黄(huang)。因此,兰(lan)州牛(niu)肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)的(de)声(sheng)誉(yu)(yu)一(yi)直延续(xu)。
岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sào)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)国(guo)西(xi)北地(di)(di)(di)区特(te)色(se)(se)(se)传(chuan)统面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食、著名(ming)西(xi)府小吃,以(yi)宝鸡的(de)(de)(de)(de)岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)最为(wei)(wei)(wei)正宗(zong)。在(zai)陕(shan)西(xi)关(guan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)平原及甘肃陇东等(deng)(deng)(deng)地(di)(di)(di)流行。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)历(li)(li)史悠久。其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)也含有(you)配(pei)菜(cai)比如豆腐,鸡蛋等(deng)(deng)(deng),做(zuo)法(fa)简(jian)单。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)就是(shi)肉(rou)丁的(de)(de)(de)(de)意思。对于(yu)陕(shan)西(xi)人(ren)来说,臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)配(pei)色(se)(se)(se)尤为(wei)(wei)(wei)重要(yao),黄色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)鸡蛋皮、黑色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)木耳、红(hong)色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)胡萝卜、绿色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)蒜(suan)苗、白色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)豆腐等(deng)(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)(deng),既好看又好吃。一碗(wan)合(he)(he)格的(de)(de)(de)(de)岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)应该具(ju)有(you)“面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白薄(bo)筋光(guang)(guang),油(you)(you)汪酸辣(la)香(xiang)(xiang)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)特(te)点。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)细(xi)长,厚薄(bo)均匀(yun)(yun),臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)鲜(xian)香(xiang)(xiang),红(hong)油(you)(you)浮面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),汤(tang)(tang)(tang)味(wei)酸辣(la),筋韧爽口,老幼皆宜(yi)。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在(zai)关(guan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)地(di)(di)(di)区有(you)其(qi)非常重要(yao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)(di)(di)位,在(zai)婚丧、逢年过(guo)节、孩子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)满月(yue)、老人(ren)过(guo)寿(shou)(shou)、迎接亲(qin)朋等(deng)(deng)(deng)重要(yao)场合(he)(he)都(dou)(dou)(dou)离不(bu)开(kai)。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)陕(shan)西(xi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)风(feng)味(wei)小吃,品(pin)种多达(da)数十种,以(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian):薄(bo)、筋、光(guang)(guang),汤(tang)(tang)(tang):煎、稀、汪,味(wei)道:酸、辣(la)、香(xiang)(xiang)为(wei)(wei)(wei)特(te)色(se)(se)(se),吃口柔韧滑爽,其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)以(yi)岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)享(xiang)誉最盛。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)特(te)点是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)细(xi)长,厚薄(bo)均匀(yun)(yun),臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)鲜(xian)香(xiang)(xiang),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)汤(tang)(tang)(tang)油(you)(you)光(guang)(guang)红(hong)润,味(wei)鲜(xian)香(xiang)(xiang)浑(hun)厚而(er)(er)不(bu)腻。而(er)(er)岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)乡土风(feng)味(wei)尤为(wei)(wei)(wei)浓厚,以(yi)酸辣(la)著称。岐(qi)(qi)山面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)求宽汤(tang)(tang)(tang),即汤(tang)(tang)(tang)多面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)少,并突出酸辣(la)味(wei)。所(suo)谓煎、汪即面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)要(yao)热得烫嘴(zui)、油(you)(you)要(yao)多,才能体(ti)现此面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)特(te)色(se)(se)(se)。岐(qi)(qi)山面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)一种高碳水化合(he)(he)物、高饱和脂肪酸的(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)(di)(di)方特(te)色(se)(se)(se)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)对关(guan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)地(di)(di)(di)区的(de)(de)(de)(de)人(ren)们生活的(de)(de)(de)(de)影响很大,无(wu)论喜事(shi)(shi)丧事(shi)(shi)、逢年过(guo)节、老人(ren)过(guo)寿(shou)(shou)、还是(shi)小孩满月(yue)或是(shi)家里来了亲(qin)朋都(dou)(dou)(dou)离不(bu)开(kai)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。关(guan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)地(di)(di)(di)区办红(hong)白事(shi)(shi)、老人(ren)过(guo)寿(shou)(shou)、孩子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)满月(yue)等(deng)(deng)(deng)都(dou)(dou)(dou)一般招待两顿(dun),所(suo)谓早饭(fan)(fan)和午飨,而(er)(er)早饭(fan)(fan)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)即为(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)食。[3] 关(guan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)农村地(di)(di)(di)区,新年第(di)一天的(de)(de)(de)(de)早晨基本上(shang)都(dou)(dou)(dou)是(shi)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。吃饭(fan)(fan)前,先端一碗(wan)汤(tang)(tang)(tang)去门前撒一些以(yi)祭奠(dian)先人(ren)和土地(di)(di)(di)爷、仓神、灶神等(deng)(deng)(deng),后(hou)才家人(ren)享(xiang)用。有(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)也在(zai)先人(ren)像(xiang)前献(xian)上(shang)一碗(wan)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)以(yi)示怀念。岐(qi)(qi)山的(de)(de)(de)(de)臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)历(li)(li)史悠久,起源于(yu)商周,清(qing)代已经很驰名(ming)。岐(qi)(qi)山大小饭(fan)(fan)店都(dou)(dou)(dou)供应臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),或者干脆就起个(ge)“岐(qi)(qi)山臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆”“臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆”或"老**臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”等(deng)(deng)(deng)只(zhi)卖臊(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)(sao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。说法(fa)一古时,周人(ren)由豳(bin)(bīn)(今陕(shan)西(xi)彬县、旬邑一带)迁(qian)至岐(qi)(qi)之周原(...
杨(yang)凌(ling)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)杨(yang)凌(ling)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)种地方小吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白薄筋(jin)光、油汪蒜(suan)辣(la)香、汤(tang)(tang)(tang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)分(fen)盆(pen)(pen)装、越嚼口(kou)(kou)越香。杨(yang)凌(ling)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)和汤(tang)(tang)(tang)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)分(fen)开的(de)(de)(de)(de),吃(chi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)时(shi)候(hou)从(cong)大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)夹(jia)出宽厚(hou)且长的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条拉到(dao)碗里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)汤(tang)(tang)(tang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),然(ran)后夹(jia)着面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)(kou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)(kou)地咬着吃(chi)。 杨(yang)凌(ling)多(duo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)馆,去杨(yang)凌(ling)者(zhe),主人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)皆要请其吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)唯面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)独(du)尊(zun)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)元化(hua)饮食(shi)格局,只有(you)(you)(you)统一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)到(dao)唯面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)独(du)尊(zun)的(de)(de)(de)(de)饮食(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)元化(hua),才有(you)(you)(you)后续的(de)(de)(de)(de)种类繁多(duo)、风(feng)格各(ge)(ge)异的(de)(de)(de)(de)百面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)争鸣之(zhi)局面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。今次又到(dao)了(le)杨(yang)凌(ling),原(yuan)本是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)与(yu)CCTV做《麦子问题》的(de)(de)(de)(de)节目(mu),麦子是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)要磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de),吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)麦子,故将面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)吃(chi)透了(le)亦有(you)(you)(you)必要,从(cong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)到(dao)麦子则是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)种细(xi)致入微的(de)(de)(de)(de)品味罢。陕(shan)(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)点菜(cai)请客,多(duo)为凉菜(cai),少不得凤翔腊(la)驴(lv)肉,普集烧鸡(ji)(ji),西(xi)(xi)乡牛肉干,老(lao)童家腊(la)牛肉,三(san)原(yuan)白封(feng)肉,宝(bao)鸡(ji)(ji)葵(kui)花(hua)鸡(ji)(ji)等,可以(yi)不上(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)个热菜(cai),冬(dong)天亦吃(chi)得鼻尖冒(mao)汗,而(er)我却(que)若(ruo)满腹凝霜。于是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),热面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条浩浩荡荡上(shang)(shang)来(lai)了(le),之(zhi)所以(yi)使用浩荡二字,实因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)小脸(lian)(lian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)端(duan)上(shang)(shang)来(lai)的(de)(de)(de)(de),在(zai)陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)这(zhei)里(li)(li)当(dang)然(ran)就(jiu)叫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)装面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)而(er)非洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)赣南则真的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),洗脸(lian)(lian)就(jiu)叫洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条端(duan)上(shang)(shang)来(lai),热汽(qi)腾(teng)腾(teng),菜(cai)青面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白,又波(bo)清雾(wu)白,各(ge)(ge)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前(qian)就(jiu)上(shang)(shang)了(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)只大(da)碗,碗中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)就(jiu)有(you)(you)(you)汤(tang)(tang)(tang),西(xi)(xi)红柿、蛋花(hua)、姜、蒜(suan)、红辣(la)椒(jiao)、口(kou)(kou)蘑、玉(yu)兰片、海参、干贝等,微酸,略(lve)辣(la),就(jiu)从(cong)大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)夹(jia)出宽厚(hou)且长的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条,泡在(zai)汤(tang)(tang)(tang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),然(ran)后夹(jia)着面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)(kou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)(kou)地咬吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)强(qiang)筋(jin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)口(kou)(kou)里(li)(li),滑润,富弹性(xing),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)(you)张力(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)种,像咬着三(san)秦大(da)地的(de)(de)(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)若(ruo)干口(kou)(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就(jiu)得吃(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)汤(tang)(tang)(tang)里(li)(li)青菜(cai),这(zhei)样就(jiu)又清爽(shuang)上(shang)(shang)阵了(le)。  住在(zai)杨(yang)凌(ling)若(ruo)干天,方理解吃(chi)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)妙处,其实是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)图(tu)个清爽(shuang)。独(du)吃(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),几(ji)束青菜(cai),碗中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)可叫汤(tang)(tang)(tang)也可以(yi)叫稍(shao)子,与(yu)油泼面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)意(yi)境正好相反,那油泼面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊(hu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重油、巨(ju)辣(la),全盘傲视川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)姿态,陕(shan)(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)说(shuo):川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)嘴上(shang)(shang),陕(shan)(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)心里(li)(li)。意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四(si)川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)辣(la)椒(jiao),只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫得响(xiang),而(er)陕(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)得响(xiang)。人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各(ge)(ge)有(you)(you)(you)各(ge)(ge)的(de)(de)(de)(de)可爱罢,如川(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰担担面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)(you)箩担之(zhi)想,然(ran)细(xi)碗一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)细(xi)如丝,恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陕(shan)(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)极端(duan)。然(ran)又有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)发(fa)现,杨(yang)凌(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也包括(kuo)西(xi)(xi)安人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大(da)...
炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)国传统(tong)特色面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。最(zui)(zui)初起源北(bei)(bei)(bei)京,为(wei)(wei)山东(dong)(dong)鲁(lu)菜。不过(guo)(guo)在(zai)(zai)传遍(bian)大(da)江南北(bei)(bei)(bei)之后便被誉为(wei)(wei)“中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)国十大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)”之一[1]  ,流(liu)行(xing)于(yu)北(bei)(bei)(bei)京 、天津(jin),山东(dong)(dong)、河(he)北(bei)(bei)(bei)、辽宁(ning)、吉林(lin)等(deng)北(bei)(bei)(bei)方地区,由菜码(ma)(ma)、炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)拌面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)而成(cheng)。将(jiang)(jiang)黄(huang)(huang)瓜(gua)、香(xiang)椿、豆(dou)(dou)芽(ya)、青豆(dou)(dou)、黄(huang)(huang)豆(dou)(dou)切(qie)好(hao)或煮(zhu)(zhu)好(hao),做(zuo)(zuo)成(cheng)菜码(ma)(ma)备(bei)用(yong)。然后做(zuo)(zuo)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),将(jiang)(jiang)肉丁(ding)及葱姜(jiang)等(deng)放在(zai)(zai)油里炒,再加(jia)(jia)(jia)入黄(huang)(huang)豆(dou)(dou)制作的(de)(de)(de)黄(huang)(huang)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)或甜面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)炒,即(ji)成(cheng)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)煮(zhu)(zhu)熟(shu)后,捞(lao)出,浇(jiao)上炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),拌以菜码(ma)(ma),即(ji)成(cheng)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。也(ye)可(ke)根据自(zi)己的(de)(de)(de)口(kou)味加(jia)(jia)(jia)辣(la)椒(jiao),醋等(deng)调味品。会更(geng)加(jia)(jia)(jia)符合自(zi)己的(de)(de)(de)口(kou)味。也(ye)有面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)捞(lao)出后用(yong)凉水浸洗再加(jia)(jia)(jia)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、菜码(ma)(ma)的(de)(de)(de),称(cheng)(cheng)(cheng) “过(guo)(guo)水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在(zai)(zai)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)国北(bei)(bei)(bei)方十分流(liu)行(xing),而陕西、天津(jin)、上海(hai)、广东(dong)(dong)、东(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)也(ye)有不同制法的(de)(de)(de)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。韩国亦有炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),是(shi)(shi)(shi)由山东(dong)(dong)华(hua)侨带(dai)入韩国,以春酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(黑豆(dou)(dou)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang))为(wei)(wei)调味料,加(jia)(jia)(jia)上洋葱、虾、肉类(lei)等(deng)。不过(guo)(guo)摆放相当(dang)精致,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)间(jian)盘放面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao),最(zui)(zui)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)央是(shi)(shi)(shi)一撮紫色的(de)(de)(de)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),像一盘工艺品。炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)北(bei)(bei)(bei)京富有特色的(de)(de)(de)食物(wu),由菜码(ma)(ma)、炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)拌面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)而成(cheng)。将(jiang)(jiang)黄(huang)(huang)瓜(gua)、香(xiang)椿、豆(dou)(dou)芽(ya)、青豆(dou)(dou)、黄(huang)(huang)豆(dou)(dou)切(qie)好(hao)或煮(zhu)(zhu)好(hao),做(zuo)(zuo)成(cheng)菜码(ma)(ma)备(bei)用(yong)。然后做(zuo)(zuo)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),将(jiang)(jiang)肉丁(ding)及葱姜(jiang)等(deng)放在(zai)(zai)油里炒,再加(jia)(jia)(jia)入黄(huang)(huang)豆(dou)(dou)制作的(de)(de)(de)黄(huang)(huang)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)或甜面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)炒,即(ji)成(cheng)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)煮(zhu)(zhu)熟(shu)后,捞(lao)出,浇(jiao)上炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),拌以菜码(ma)(ma),即(ji)成(cheng)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。也(ye)有面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)条(tiao)捞(lao)出后用(yong)凉水浸洗再加(jia)(jia)(jia)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、菜码(ma)(ma)的(de)(de)(de),称(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“过(guo)(guo)水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在(zai)(zai)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)国的(de)(de)(de)流(liu)行(xing)程度,从国内各地关于(yu)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)顺(shun)口(kou)溜可(ke)见(jian)一斑(ban)。在(zai)(zai)北(bei)(bei)(bei)方,常见(jian)的(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)猪肉丁(ding)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)。是(shi)(shi)(shi)以半(ban)肥瘦猪肉丁(ding)加(jia)(jia)(jia)葱、姜(jiang)、蒜(suan)等(deng)在(zai)(zai)油锅(guo)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)炒,加(jia)(jia)(jia)黄(huang)(huang)稀(xi)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),盖(gai)(gai)上锅(guo)盖(gai)(gai)小火(huo)咕嘟10分钟。当(dang)肉丁(ding)被黄(huang)(huang)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)咕嘟透(tou)了,肉皮(pi)红亮,香(xiang)味四讲(jiang)究的(de)(de)(de)则是(shi)(shi)(shi)里脊(ji)丁(ding)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)三鲜(xian)(xian)(虾仁(ren)、里脊(ji)、玉兰(lan)片(pian))炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)等(deng),还有木(mu)樨(鸡(ji)蛋)炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)豆(dou)(dou)腐丁(ding)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、烧(shao)茄子丁(ding)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)等(deng)素(su)品,油而不腻。老北(bei)(bei)(bei)京人吃炸(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)(zha)酱(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),冷天讲(jiang)究吃热(re)的(de)(de)(de),谓(wei)之“锅(guo)儿(er)挑”(完全(quan)不过(guo)(guo)水),热(re)天吃过(guo)(guo)水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),但汤要(yao)篦尽。根据季(ji)节佐以各种时鲜(xian)(xian)小菜,谓(wei)之“全(quan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)码(ma)(ma)儿(er)”。初春,用(yong)掐(qia)头去尾的(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)(dou)芽(ya)菜(称(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)掐(qia)菜)、只有两(liang)片(pian)子叶的(de)(de)(de)小水萝卜缨,并浇(jiao)上过(guo)(guo)年(nian)剩下(xia)的(de)(de)(de)腊八醋。春深...
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